Poças Junior Vintage Port 2017

What were you doing the summer of 2017 back when Trump was president and Harvey Weinstein still ruled Hollywood? In June that year a heatwave scorched Portugal and much of southern Europe, creating devastating wildfires across the Iberian Peninsula, marking the start of one of the hottest and deadliest summers on record.

But, despite this extreme weather, 2017 was an outstanding year for Portuguese wine—a general vintage was declared by 71 Port producers. Vintage Port is only produced on average three times a decade when the grapes are of the highest quality. That means as little as 2% of total Port wines are vintage. 2016 was also a vintage year, making 2017 a rare back-to-back general vintage declaration not seen since 1872 and 1873.

Poças Junior Vintage Port 2017 expresses suffering through the sweltering heat with concentrated flavours of ripe black cherry, toffee, dried fruits like figs and plums, and rich, dark chocolate. It is sweet and opulent, but remarkably, still balanced by sufficient acidity.

You may be tempted to open this bottle immediately. And if you do, you will be rewarded with a delicious wine. But then go out and buy another bottle or two and put them away. Over the next couple of decades this wine will mellow and gain increased complexity and elegance.

If the summers in Portugal keep getting hotter, Port producers may not be as successful creating fine Vintage Port such as this one. Let’s hope 2017 is not the last great Port year, but just in case, stock up.